An evening with Marco Pierre White at Lympstone Manor Hotel

From Michelin stars to rewilding the countryside, Marco Pierre White shares stories and insights in an exclusive evening at Lympstone Manor, hosted by Michael Caines MBE.

Welcome to Lympstone Manor, Marco. It’s great to have you here with Michael for our special gala dinner.

Meeting Michael Caines

I met Michael on the phone many years ago. Gordon Ramsay and Robert Reid worked with him in Paris under Joël Robuchon. Later, Gordon returned to London to work for Pierre Koffman at La Tante Claire before I arranged for him to move to Aubergine as Head Chef. Robert worked with me, and around that time, I spoke with Michael – just before he moved to Gidleigh Park.

Michelin Stars & Lympstone Manor

I don’t understand why Michael hasn’t been awarded two Michelin stars at Lympstone Manor. He had them at Gidleigh Park, and frankly, his food here is even better. I’ve eaten at many two- and three-star restaurants worldwide, and I believe it’s an injustice. If he doesn’t get his second star soon, it will be a real crime.

The Current Climate for Hospitality

It’s tough for restaurants right now, especially Michelin-starred ones with long-established chefs. Many are closing. It’s more important than ever to support them.

Crossing Paths at Le Manoir

I was at Le Manoir before Michael – I’m almost a generation ahead of him. I worked with Raymond Blanc in the early days, starting in 1984 when it was much smaller. I have fond memories, and now my daughter works there.

Inspiration from My Father

I grew up in Yorkshire in a humble home. In those days, you followed your father’s path. My father was a chef, so I entered the industry, starting at the Hotel St George in Harrogate. I was 16 when I discovered Michelin stars in a guidebook and decided to pursue the best. The Box Tree in Ilkley, one of only four two-star restaurants in Britain at the time, was nearby. I got a job there, and that’s where I fell in love with gastronomy.

Journey to London & Le Gavroche

I heard about London’s great restaurants—Gavroche, the Connaught, the Waterside. I wrote to Le Gavroche but messed up my application in French. Meanwhile, I got an interview at Chewton Glen, but the role was in pastry, which didn’t interest me. On my way home, I missed my coach and found myself outside Le Gavroche. The next morning, I knocked on the kitchen door. A baker directed me to their head office, where I met Albert Roux. He asked where I worked. When I mentioned The Box Tree, he said, “The best meal I ever had in Britain was there.” That’s how I got my job at Le Gavroche.

Passion for Farming & Nature

I love farms. After my mother died, I spent a lot of time on one owned by my father’s best friend. The estate was designed by Capability Brown, and I developed a deep love for nature. If it weren’t for that connection, I wouldn’t have won three Michelin stars. Nature became my surrogate mother.

Farming has changed. When I was young, there were more insects, swallows, and songbirds. Fields had hedgerows. Commercial farming has taken over, which is a loss.

Thoughts on British Farming & Jeremy Clarkson

Jeremy Clarkson is doing amazing things for farming. I visited The Farmer’s Dog for lunch and saw a giant pork pie with small ones stacked on top. I told Jeremy, “I love the Yorkshire wedding cake!”

Dining Preferences

I enjoy simple, generous portions. I visit a Spanish restaurant, a local Chinese place for a few good dishes, and a Jamaican spot for braised oxtail and goat curry. The key is knowing what each restaurant does best.

English Wine

English wine continues to improve although remains expensive due to economies of scale. That said, I tried Lympstone Manor’s Cuvee and found it crisp, clean, and light – perfect for summer on the terrace overlooking the estuary. As Michael likes to say, a sense of place. While I still believe French wines are the best, Italian and Spanish wines offer great value.

Lympstone Manor Estate Cuvee bottle with two glasses on the table in fine dining room

Rudloe Arms: My Hotel & Rewilding Project

I converted my house into a hotel, Rudloe Arms. When finished, it will have 60 rooms, including shepherd huts. We’re rewilding the estate, cutting grass only twice a year. Wildlife – birds, insects, hedgehogs, and deer – are returning. We’ve created walkways so guests can experience nature without disturbing it. The philosophy is to walk through nature, not over it.